Nebraskaland

28 NEBRASKAland • JULY 2015 T he knife – perhaps mankind's oldest tool at 2.5 million years – has a special place in any hunter's field kit. There are as many kinds of knives as there are uses, and as many opinions about knives as there are hunters. While most knives perform more than just one task, it's important to remember that no single knife can do everything. With so many styles, designs, features and materials to choose from, it can be hard to figure out what your ideal knife should be. If you are a hunter – and the primary function of your blade is field dressing a deer – then there are a few things to consider. Size Matters The most common mistake novice hunters make is buying a knife that is too large. Perhaps Hollywood is to blame for this: while Bowie knives, "Rambo" knives and fantasy knives might look great on film, they are poor choices when field dressing game. The ideal field knife should have a blade length of only three to five inches. (If you do your own processing at home, then you might switch to a hatchet or hack saw to remove the antlers or cut through the thicker leg bones.) The blade thickness should be between .11 and .17 inches. Anything less is a pocket knife and anything more is a bushcrafting knife. Know When to Fold 'Em Folding knives are compact and handy. Many hunters swear by them in the field, and there is certainly nothing wrong with field dressing a deer with one. Make sure, however, that you buy a quality brand with a sturdy blade lock. The last thing you want is to fold the blade onto your fingers, or for a cheap blade to snap off at the weak spot (which is usually at the fold). Folding knives are also more difficult to clean, especially when deer fat gets into the folding mechanism, which it invariably will. I prefer a fixed-blade knife with a full tang (the blade and handle are one piece of continuous metal). They say the greatest tool a hunter can have is confidence, and for me, a fixed blade gives me the most confidence. The Blade's the Thing The best knife is a sharp knife. That being said, you should sharpen your knife before you get to the field. How you sharpen a knife depends on the grind. With steel, you are balancing hardness and toughness. Hardness is measured on the Rockwell Scale, and hunting knives should have a score of 58-60. Toughness (in metallurgy) is its ductility, or ability to resist shattering. If a knife is too hard it might break; if it's too soft it won't hold an edge. Metallurgy has come a long way in the last few generations of modern hunting knives. I recommend a "modern" stainless steel blade, which seems to come in an endless variety of confusing numbers and letters – SV30, D2, VG10. Even among stainless steels there are vast differences, and you get what you pay for. Some blades are even "laminated" so that the core of the blade and the outside are two different steels. High quality and high cost tend to go together, but there are many mass-produced brands that use acceptable stainless steel. Avoid carbon steel since it will rust. Also avoid blades that are hard to clean such as "anniversary editions" with engraved pictures; keep those in your display case with the fancy Damascus steel. The Ultimate Deer Knife By Matthew Marx Photos by Jeff Kurrus 28 NEBRASKAland • JULY 2015 he knife – at 2.5 milli in any hunt many kind and as many opin are hunters. Whi than just one task that no single kn many styles, des to choose from, what your idea r a hunter – and blade is field d are a few thin Size M The most c hunters mak large. Perh for this: knives great on when fi field k length (If yo home hatch antl leg sho inc kn b Choosing the right knife can be a daunting task – especially when a specific task deserves a specific knife. So what makes a good "deer knife?" Matthew's custom Fallkniven F1, while technically a survival knife, is great for field dressing deer. See more information on knife sharpening. S i s

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